By ALANNA MITCHELL
EARTH SCIENCES REPORTER
Saturday, November 30, 2002 – Print Edition, Page A3
GLAUMBAER, ICELAND
-- Here on this remote northern edge of Iceland, buried under a thousand
years of volcanic ash and drifting soil, the second half of one of Canada's
most ancient human mysteries finally is being dug up.
It is, they say, the home of Snorri Thorfinnson, famed in Viking lore
as the first European born in the New World and a key family member in Eric
the Red's legendary clan.
Thorfinnson's birthplace is thought to be in Newfoundland, at l'Anse aux
Meadows. Discovered 40 years ago, it has been made a United Nations World
Heritage Site and is considered one of the world's major archeological finds.
Besides being the only authenticated settlement of Norse Vikings in North
America, l'Anse aux Meadows is the earliest mark of the sweeping role Europeans
were fated to play on the North American stage.
But the question always has been: Where did Thorfinnson go from there?
The answer, it seems, is right here, to this farmer's field in Glaumbaer. At the moment, a few dozen of Iceland's shaggy sheep are grazing over what would have been Thorfinnson's sleeping quarters.
The find has reverberated through this island of 280,000, where the story
of Thorfinnson and his much-travelled mother, Gudridur Thorbjarnardottir,
has the potency of a holy story.
"The last year has been trying to believe it's not just a fantasy," said
Sigridur Sigurdardottir, an ethnographer who is head of the Glaumbaer Folk Museum and has watched the house unearthed before her eyes.
"It's just there, waiting."
The search for Thorfinnson's house began about three centuries ago with
the publication of the medieval manuscripts that contain the magnificent
Icelandic sagas, which describe in bloodthirsty detail the epic adventures
of about 40 families.
Two stories, the Saga of Eric the Red and the Saga of the Greenlanders, tell the tale of Thorfinnson and Thorbjarnardottir.
It goes like this: A long time ago, before the year 1000, the beautiful
Thorbjarnardottir married the rich eldest son of Eric the Red, after Eric
fled from Iceland to settle in Greenland as an outlaw. Her imagination was
fired by the tales of Eric's second son, Leif Ericson, who had just discovered
the New World and had come back to Greenland to tell about it. Thorbjarnardottir
longed to see the new land, but her husband died before they could get there.
But then Thorbjarnardottir, the wealthy and beautiful young widow, met
Thorfinnur Karlsefni, the best sailor of the day and with royal blood in
his veins. Like her, he had wanderlust. They married and set off across the
ocean, found the houses Leif Ericson had built and explored much further
up and down the Vineland coast.
Eventually, they settled in what is now Newfoundland, gave birth to Snorri
Thorfinnson and stayed for about three years. When it was time to leave,
they loaded up their Viking ships with many goods from the New World, sailed
to Norway and sold the exotic materials for a fortune.
Then they took Thorfinnson back to Iceland, where Karlsefni stood to inherit
one of the richest farms in the land. But Karlsefni's mother took a rooted
dislike to Thorbjarnardottir for her low birth, so the couple bought a large
farm at Glaumbaer and settled there in about 1000.
For centuries, the tale has baffled Icelandic scholars because a large turf house still stands at Glaumbaer,
but it was built after 1104. Where is Thorfinnson's house? Could it be under
the turf house there now? Difficult to tell. Built of organic material, turf
houses are tough to find. Worse still, Icelanders left no pottery because
the island's soil has no clay content.
Enter John Steinberg, an archeologist at the University of California
at Los Angeles, who is fascinated with the sagas and with Icelanders. He
reasoned that if he sent an alternating electrical current through a field,
he could discover whether the field was likely to contain an ancient Icelandic
house.
He did that in the hayfield at Glaumbaer, and, mirabile dictu,
a perfectly preserved turf long house appeared that seems to draw a straight
line from Newfoundland to Iceland. "I'm almost sure this is the house," Dr.
Steinberg said. "It's a real opportunity to put these sagas in context."
The house buried deep under here was 29 metres long, with a floor of tramped
clay and peat ash 15 centimetres deep, Ms. Sigurdardottir said.
The turf walls, cut in perfect pieces from the peaty riverbed nearby,
were 1.8 metres thick. Ms. Sigurdardottir pointed to another part of the
hayfield. Underneath is a smithy where the Icelanders made bog iron. Ancient
tools and a stable have been found.
Some of the structure was built before 1000, and was added to and renovated
twice. They found part of a calf's jaw from about 1018. But by 1104, the
place had been abandoned, never to be lived in again, for reasons that remain
a mystery. Dr. Steinberg knows this because it is covered with fine ash from
the Hekla volcano that erupted that year.
There are some hitches to this archeological find, as Dr. Steinberg and
Ms. Sigurdardottir make haste to point out. The key one is whether the sagas
tell the truth or fiction. Did Snorri Thorfinnson really exist? It's hard
to say. All anyone knows for sure is that some Vikings landed in Newfoundland
in around 1000; some wealthy Icelanders lived in Glaumbaer around the same time, and Icelanders believe the sagas are true.
There is one more clue. Up on the hill behind this archeological site
is a church dated to 1030. A statue of Thorbjarnardottir and Thorfinnson
stands in the graveyard, an Icelandic token of faith in the truth of the
sagas. Mother and son look straight toward Newfoundland.
The saga says that Thorbjarnardottir didn't stop her journeys when she
returned to Iceland. After Thorfinnson's father died, she travelled from
Glaumbaer to Rome, mostly on foot, seeking
absolution from the Pope. She vowed that when she got back, she would build
the first church in this part of Iceland. When she got back, it is said,
this church was already standing, a tribute from Thorfinnson to the wayfaring
mother who had given birth to him in the New World.
|